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On the way out of the Kerio Valley Reserve, we stop to look for my GPS. One of the likely places it was lost was when I jumped out of the car to look for a route on the way to Ford. It’s fairly open ground, but muddy as hell – the GPS would probably have been buried by the rear wheels if it did fall out of the car when I opened the door – but I have to look.

you lucky bastard

Dolors can’t believe my luck – within 10 minutes of searching, I find it, lying in the mud, just by a small thorn bush and not far from the car tracks. I am a lucky bugger – and today I’m very grateful for it!

Dave – I’ll get your GPS back to you as soon as possible – It’s locked up securely in the back… 

Dolors has found a cheap place to stay not far from Kabernet and the 2007 Rhino Charge event – Lake Baringo, to the east has a minimal entrance fee and a popular campsite. By mid afternoon we’re on our way – driving through the Kerio valley once more, taking in the stunning scenery as we meander along.

Roberts Camp, on the shores of Lake Baringo is our destination – it’s a well run, well placed campsite – a little on the expensive side (especially as there are no hot showers) but a welcome pit stop for us.

Roberts camp

I’m totally exhausted after the Rhino Charge, it’ll take me two days to recover – this is a great spot for it – there’s a swimming pool next door we make good use of – and catch up on some well deserved sleep. The only interruption to sleep is the frequent visits by hippos in the night. We hear them around our tent, and catch glances of them as the security guards at the camp shoe them away with bright lights.

They’re enormous animals – and I have to get a photo of one for my good friend Jacob in Germany (who’s just turned 6 years old). At night they’re out of the water – and chomping away on the grass around us – but with my camera they’re impossible to photograph here – we’ll have to take a boat and see them in the water.

The only way to get to the water is to take a boat – the reeds and bush is too dense by the shores, and there’s lots of large crocs here.
There was a 2m long crock on the pier at Roberts Camp just a few moments before this picture was taken – thankfully they’re scared of people, so rarely attack.

where’s the croc

You’ll also notice in that photo the island in the lake – it looks rather like a teddy bear laying in a huge puddle….

After a few days resting and eating, we head out for a sunrise boat trip across the lake. It’s teeming with wildlife – incredible birds, large crocs and huge hippos.

After buying some fish from the local fishermen

fish market

We’re off to feed the fish eagles… They fly over when our guide – Douglass calls them, they’re used to tourists providing them with a good meal – all we ask in return is a decent photo.

fish eagle

Before long, we spot the hippos, strangely today this family’s not in one group, but spread around a large area – only a few are in the open water, the rest hide in the long reeds.

this one’s for Jacob

There’s your first picture of a hippo Jacob – it was quite interesting as just after I took the photo as the large beast started to charge at us through the water. We’d ventured too close and he’s not happy about us being here.

We hope that the boats engine starts first time as he comes bounding through the water – creating huge waves as he gets closer.

hippo charge

It does start – and we leave him to his business – enough stress for him for one day. We’re reminded constantly of how dangerous these animals can be – just last night a woman was mauled by one as she tried to climb a tree to escape. Now in hospital, she’s OK – but with severe leg injuries.

Douglas and alex


Douglass – our guide from Lake Baringo suggests camping up on the cliffs overlooking the lake – there’s a stunning view, and it’s free. Not needing too much encouragement we head upto the cliffs and setup camp.

setup cliff camp

It’s really a spectacular spot, camped right on the cliff edge, our dining room has the most spectacular views of the lake.
The lake also has spectacular views of us – Muzungu camping on the hills!! Within no time, we have a few extra guests for dinner.

dinner guests

The kids are great – they’re truly curious about us – many have never touched a white person before and they take great delight in stroking our arms and poking us whilst giggling. Blonde hair (which I now have on my arms after 4 months of sun) is a total novelty to them.

We cooked a whole leg of goat, drank a few beers as the sun went down and settled into some great stories from Douglass – a highly recommended guide for Lake Baringo. If you’re passing there – and need a guide – call him (just e-mail me for his phone number).